Did you know that a rare antique cameo sold at auction for an eye-popping price of $350,000? Surprising, isn’t it? Antique cameos are one of the most exquisite jewelry items every vintage jewelry collector wants in their collection. So, if you have a cameo brooch or pendant, this guide is just for you!
It reveals the 12 rare and valuable antique cameo jewelry items that can be worth serious money today. You will also learn expert tips to discover what makes a vintage cameo valuable and how to differentiate between fake and real examples!
1. Antique Coral Cameo Drop Earrings
These are a pair of dangling earrings made of ornate, high-relief carved coral cameos set in 18k gold frames. The design features an unusual ram’s head design at the top of each earring, with multiple carved coral face cameos hanging as dangles from each earring.
The highly detailed carving work on such a small piece of stone is an example of exceptional artistry. The exquisite design, along with the rarity and desirability of the corals, justified the mind-blowing price this piece sold for, a whopping $18,000!
2. Tomaso Saulini Gold Carved Shell Cameo Pendant
There are three features that make this antique pendant worth $2,000+! Firstly, it’s made from a naturally layered shell (against the light brown background) carved to show a left-facing profile of a bearded man in high relief. The cameo shows exceptional detail in the facial features and hair.
Second, the pendant is designed by renowned artist Tommaso Saulini and is signed in front of the cameo. Lastly, it has a high-quality 14k yellow gold frame/bezel. Beautifully carved with exceptional detail in the facial features and hair.
3. Victorian Renaissance Revival High-Relief Hardstone Cameo Pin
This extraordinary, truly antique cameo pin is really a museum piece! It’s a Victorian cameo brooch featuring a deeply carved agate (a type of hardstone) showing an exceptionally high-relief (5/9 inches from the background) classical bust of a lady.
The cameo is set in yellow gold with an ornate Renaissance Revival style frame, featuring vibrant enamelwork and striking emerald cabochons. There are additional decorative elements in contrasting colors, likely coral or garnet. The brooch has all the commendable features to be sold at $8,000!
4. Antique English Victorian Lava High Relief Cameo Bracelet
This is an iconic Victorian large cameo bracelet from the 1800s, highly distinguished by its unique design. It features six oval-shaped carved lava cameos set in sterling silver, with each cameo depicting a different classical female profile or figure in high relief.
The cameos show varying colors, including dark gray/black, brown, and lighter tones, connected by a sterling silver framework with a traditional clasp. The commendable craftsmanship and exotic material like lava rock justify the high price of $795!
5. Onyx Cameo Ring with Diamonds
This exquisite 19th-century Empire-style cameo ring features a carved black onyx cameo with a classical profile of a Greek or Roman warrior with a helmet. What makes this ring worth $5,500+ is the eight small rose-cut diamonds around the cameo on the onyx border!
The cameo stone is set in a solid yellow gold frame. Overall, it’s a highly valuable piece, especially if found in excellent condition with a flawless cameo.
6. Antique Coral Classical Lady Cameo Ring
This rare antique cameo ring from the late 1800s features a coral cameo, which was a prized material for its color and organic beauty, as reflected by the $1,000 worth of this example.
It’s a gold ring made from carved angelskin coral (a pale pink/peach variety of precious coral), featuring a classical lady profile in detailed relief. The difficulty of carving coral and the artistry of the carver make coral cameo pieces highly valuable!
7. Antique Campbell Wedding Portrait Cameo Brooch by Tommaso Saulini
This is an extraordinary shell cameo brooch dating back to 1838, making it a truly rare and antique early Victorian piece. Designed by Tommaso Saulini, the brooch features the portrait of Charlotte Susan Campbell (as mentioned in the listing) carved into a bull’s mouth shell.
The cameo stone is set in an exceptional 18-karat gold frame with a 3D Stafford Knot design. The quality of carving is a defining feature of Tommaso Saulini, adding to the value of this rare cameo piece.
Not all Tommaso Saulini cameo pieces are signed, and the ones that are, typically fetch higher premiums.
8. Antique Victorian Cameo Locket Pendant
This lovely Victorian-era cameo locket pendant features a small hardstone cameo (black stone with white/ivory relief) showing a woman’s profile. The detailed cameo is set in a solid, high-quality 10K oval-shaped gold frame with a decorative bail at the top.
The frame displays a decorative scrollwork border around the cameo. Hinged on the side, the cameo top opens to hold a small memento or photograph. Cameo lockets with even higher karat gold and valuable stones can fetch up to a thousand or more.
9. Antique French Yellow Gold Coral Cameo Bracelet
This is another cameo bracelet, except this one has coral ones. This stunning French bracelet features eight oval coral cameos, each individually carved with different classical profiles of women.
The cameos are set in 18K yellow gold with delicate bezel settings around each cameo, adding more to the value of this exclusive piece. French coral cameo bracelets like this were highly fashionable during the Victorian era (approximately 1837-1901), making this piece a collector’s charm today.
10. Edwardian Yellow Gold Carved Sardonyx Cameo Cufflinks
This pair of Edwardian-era cameo cufflinks features carved sardonyx cameos (black background with bluish-white carved layer), depicting male profiles, likely classical figures or emperors.
Dating to circa 1910, the cufflinks are made of 14K gold (placing them in the late Edwardian period) in rectangular shapes with decorative borders and feature traditional toggle-style backs, typical of period cufflinks.
The amazing skill of carving intricate details on such small stones makes these antique cufflinks worth the price of $385. In higher karatage, these can fetch $500 to $1,000+
11. Antique Micromosaic Cameo Brooch
This is a beautiful antique Italian shell cameo brooch from around the 1900s, making it a real antique piece. It showcases a finely hand-carved shell cameo showing a female profile with an elaborate curled hairstyle.
The defining characteristic of this piece is its exotic silver frame with a unique micro-mosaic border, featuring small colored glass pieces (tesserae) in a floral curved design. The combination of shell cameo carving and micro mosaic work can make these pieces worth hundreds to thousands!
12. Wedgwood Blue Jasperware Cameo Brooch
This is a beautiful Victorian-era Wedgwood cameo brooch made of blue jasperware (Wedgwood’s signature blue ceramic material) with a white relief design. The cameo shows a cherubic Cupid figure holding a bow and is set in a sterling silver frame with a beaded border.
The pin displays an engraved “WEDGWOOD/MADE IN ENGLAND/63/TG” marking on the back, which verifies its authenticity. Such examples in good condition can fetch $50-$250.
What Makes Vintage Cameo Jewelry Valuable? (4 Key Signs)
Here are the crucial factors one must assess to find out whether old cameo jewelry is valuable or not.
Cameo Material & Setting Material
Cameo material is the most crucial factor determining the value of an antique jewelry piece. Here are the most popular materials to look for:
- Hardstones: Hardstones are more generally more challenging to carve and more durable, making them valuable. Cameos carved from hardstones (such as agate, sardonyx, onyx, emerald, aquamarine, or carnelian) typically fetch higher premiums than softer materials like shell or lava.
- Coral: Coral is a rare, extremely fragile material that requires serious skills to carve a cameo from it. That’s why well-carved coral cameos, especially those in vibrant colors and good condition, are increasingly valuable today.
- Shell: Although less sought-after and valuable than hardstone, exceptional, well-carved shell cameos with high relief can fetch high premiums. Certain types of shells, like the Queen Conch, are more prized for their unique colors. Also, signed shell cameos are highly desirable.
- Lava Rock: While typically less valuable, lava cameos from the 19th century are still highly collectible thanks to their novelty and historical significance. Moreover, lava cameos associated with Pompeii and Herculaneum are even more sought-after.
- Rare Materials: Cameos carved in colored stones like opal, lapis lazuli, and emerald are rare and highly valued. Princess Lobanov-Rostovsky’s emerald cameo, worth approximately $200,000 (CHF 181,250), exemplifies this value, since emerald is one of the most difficult stones to carve.
The material of the frame also plays a significant role. For instance, cameos set in solid, high-karat gold (14K, 18K or higher) or platinum will be worth more than silver or other materials like brass, bronze, etc.
Also, frames decorated with more precious gemstones, like diamonds, pearls, or others, can enhance the overall value of the cameo jewelry.
Quality of Carving
The artistry and technical execution of the carving on a cameo are other crucial factors for its value. For instance, highly detailed cameos that give a life-like three-dimensional effect are generally more desirable than flat-looking cameos.
Similarly, cameos with extremely fine and sharp details, like graceful, smooth-flowing lines in hair, eyes, and other facial features, are more valuable. High relief carvings are typically more desirable as they demonstrate greater skill.
The subject matter of the cameo is another crucial factor, as rare or unusual subjects can be more valuable. For instance, depictions of men, multi-figure scenes, historical figures, or unique mythological themes. Cameos of African American individuals are also quite rare.
Setting Style
Although not as much as the carving itself, the design on cameo frames also impacts the worth. For example, cameos set in a golden frame with ornate scrollwork can be more valuable than ones with a plain frame.
Similarly, the style and craftsmanship of the setting/frame of the cameo also affect its worth. For instance, cameos with ornate Victorian settings, Art Nouveau designs, or other historically significant styles, especially in precious metals, can be extremely valuable.
Condition and Settings
Just like any other vintage jewelry, the condition is one of the most vital value factors. Generally, cameos free from damages like chips, cracks, significant scratches, or damage to the carving are more valuable.
Also, if the carved details are filled with dirt or other substances, it may detract from the value. Similarly, in the case of painted or enameled elements, faded or chipped paint or enamel will reduce the cameo’s worth.
The condition of the frame may also impact the value, with examples of chipped, broken, or scratched frames being less desirable.
Age & History
Generally, older cameos tend to be way more valuable than the newer ones. For instance, Victorian-era cameos (mid-to-late 19th century) are more collectible than the later 20th century examples.
One of the quick ways to track the age of a cameo is to examine the nose shape. Generally, cameos from the earlier half of the 19th Century typically show “straight, Roman noses,” while the Victorian examples often feature slightly “upturned noses.” More sloped and curved noses indicate the 1920s or post-1920s piece.
Similarly, the type of clasps used in the jewelry can also indicate its age. You can learn more about jewelry clasps here!
In addition, examples with a well-documented history about who they belonged to, especially those linked to notable individuals, also command higher values.
How to Authenticate Antique Cameos?
Not all cameos you see in a flea market or garage sale, or even in your own jewelry box, will be real. Some can be fake or even reproductions. So, here are four common, easy ways to authenticate an antique cameo:
- Check the Carving: Real, hand-carved antique cameos will show high-level details and artistry, especially in hair, clothing, and facial expressions. On the other hand, these details likely appear dull in fakes or reproductions.
- Check the Surface: Authentic hand-carved cameos often have rough and uneven surfaces. If a cameo shows an unnaturally smooth, even appearance without subtle flaws, it’s like laser-carved or fake.
- Do the Temperature Test: Genuine shell and stone materials are naturally cool to the touch. On the other hand, plastic and resin examples tend to feel warmer at room temperature. You can also cool them down to see which stone retains the coldness for a longer time.
- Do the Light Test: Real shell stones allow some light to pass through, creating a translucent view. Hold the cameo up to light; if the light doesn’t pass through, it’s likely plastic, celluloid, or bakelite.
- Do the Sound Test: Authentic stones produce a solid, clear sound with slight treble. Reproduced plastic or celluloid examples create a dull or hollow sound.
If you’re still unsure, take the cameo to a jeweler and get it verified.
