Did you know that old hair combs can sell for $2,000 at auctions today? Now you do! This means that old, tarnished antique comb in your jewelry box might not just be decorative—it could be a slice of fashion history worth more than your monthly rent.
So take it out right now because today I’m going to tell you all about identifying antique hair combs and what really makes them valuable, along with some examples to show you what rare combs are actually worth!
Brief History of Hair Combs
Hair combs have been around for a staggeringly long time. We’re talking 5,000+ years! Ancient Egyptians were crafting them way back in 5500 B.C. These early combs started out flat, but artisans eventually figured out that curved designs fit the human head much better.
By the early 1800s, hair combs were full-on fashion statements, with inventors rushing to patent new designs and manufacturing techniques. The real golden age of hair combs came in the 19th century, especially during the Victorian era. Most were sold in sets of three, a large comb for the top bun and two matching smaller ones for the sides.
The Jazz Age of the 1920s-30s gave hair combs their last big hurrah. Materials like Bakelite and celluloid (early plastics) became all the rage. By the 1940s-50s, though, hair combs had mostly lost their decorative mojo and were usually just practical items attached to hats.
How to Identify & Date Antique Hair Combs?
Spotting a real deal among a wide range of old combs can be tricky. But analyzing the following aspects will help you:
Hair Comb Types
When you start digging into the world of antique combs, you’ll find that not all hair combs were created equal. Here’s a quick rundown of the main types you’ll come across:
- Back Combs (Ornamental): These combs have long teeth and decorative tops. During the 1700s, these combs were a staple among wealthy women. They’re like the statement necklaces of hair accessories!
- Spanish Mantilla Combs: Ever seen those dramatic combs that create a halo effect? That’s a mantilla comb, extremely popular in the 1830s. With their convex shape and sturdy teeth, these combs could anchor those mantilla lace veils that Spanish women wore to church.
- Tiara Combs: As fancy as they sound! Dating back to the 1400s, these crown-shaped combs were often studded with gemstones and metals. Generally, these are made to be worn at the front of the hair.
- Chignon Combs: These practical yet pretty combs were designed specifically to keep a bun (or chignon) in place. They’re usually curved to follow the shape of the head.
- Side Combs: Usually hunting in pairs, these smaller combs were placed on each side of the head as decorative accessories to polish shorter hairstyles, like the bob!
Styles & Designs
You can often date an antique comb just by its style. Here’s what to look for:
Japanese Kushi Style
In 17th-century Japan, women used combs as serious status symbols. These Kushi combs instantly broadcast a woman’s wealth, class, and even religious affiliation. Generally, these were made from lacquer, wood, or tortoiseshell and decorated with gold!
Victorian Style Combs (1837-1901)
Their combs went overboard with elaborate designs stolen from Gothic cathedrals and Renaissance palaces. What’s fascinating is how they made them – machines did the basic cutting, but then actual families working in their homes would hand-finish all those tiny details.
After the 1860s invention of celluloid (the first semi-synthetic plastic), you started seeing more affordable versions that mimicked expensive materials.
The mourning customs of the Victorian era led to the popularity of “mourning combs.” These somber pieces were usually made from jet (this cool fossilized wood that polishes up like black glass), vulcanite (hardened rubber that feels warm to the touch), or just plain old horn dyed black.
Edwardian Style Combs (1901-1915)
Edwardian combs are all about delicate, feminine details – like someone took a Victorian comb and put it on a diet. They’re definitely the sophisticated older sister of the Victorian styles – more refined and less “in your face” with the ornamentation.
Art Nouveau Combs (1890-1910)
You’ll never mistake an Art Nouveau comb for anything else! They’re all flowing, organic lines that make you think of underwater scenes or tangled vines.
The materials got experimental during this period, too. Besides the usual horn, you’d see amazing enamel work that looked like stained glass windows for your hair (they called this technique plique-à-jour), plus all kinds of unusual stones and glass elements.
René Lalique (that famous French glassmaker) created comb designs, with the dragonfly combs being the Holy Grail for serious collectors.
Art Deco Combs (1920-1939)
After the flowy Art Nouveau period came the sharp, geometric Art Deco style. These combs are bold statements with strong lines and stylized patterns – perfect for those new bobbed haircuts women were sporting.
Auguste Bonaz was the rock star designer of Deco combs. His pieces have this unmistakable modernist vibe that still looks fresh today. I once passed up a Bonaz comb at an estate sale (the price was outrageous), and I’m still kicking myself about it ten years later.
The Mid-20th Century “Vintage” Combs (1940s-1950s)
World War II changed everything in the accessory world. With metal being rationed for the war effort, plastic became the go-to material for combs. But companies like Grip-Tuth came up with these clever designs that could hold hair securely without needing any metal parts at all.
Materials
The materials used in antique hair combs can tell you a lot about when they were made and how much they cost originally. Here’s what to look for:
- Tortoiseshell: The rock star of Victorian combs. Women absolutely coveted these combs- they had this unique honey-amber color that caught the light, plus they were super flexible, so they didn’t snap easily.
- Horn: What regular folks used. Horn wasn’t as fancy as tortoiseshell, but craftsmen could do almost anything with it – bend it, stretch it, carve it, you name it. Plenty of horn combs were dyed darker to fake that tortoiseshell look (Victorian knock-offs!).
- Ivory: If you spot an ivory comb? That’s serious money. These weren’t everyday items – they were pure showing off. The carving work on some of them is mind-blowing, with details so fine you need a magnifying glass. They’re mostly special occasion pieces.
- Celluloid: The first “plastic” that caught on in a big way. Manufacturers developed it specifically to replace tortoiseshell and ivory after prices went through the roof. By the early 1900s, these were everywhere. You can spot old celluloid today by the greenish patina it develops.
- Vulcanite/Ebonite: Those black combs were invented thanks to Charles Goodyear (yep, same guy behind the tires). He mixed rubber with sulfur and created this hard black material that jewelers went nuts for in the 1850s. I’ve seen some beautiful examples that darkened to this chocolate-brown color over time.
- Metal: Not as common as the others, but when they were made from silver or gold? Whew! Those were strictly for the upper crust. You’d find these beauties in sterling silver, brass, or gilt metal throughout the 1800s. My aunt collects these, and the craftsmanship is just incredible.
- Bakelite: The It-material of the Art Deco era that came in these fabulous bright colors that perfectly matched the bold geometric designs of the 1920s and 30s. Collectors have this trick where they rub Bakelite with hot water – it gives off this distinctive formaldehyde smell that tells you it’s the real deal.
- Wood: Usually boxwood or cherrywood, wooden combs tended to be simpler with more folk-art designs. I picked up one at a country auction that has this wonderful worn patina from years of handling.
In addition to these, the fanciest combs didn’t stop at luxurious base materials—they were decorated with gemstones, pearls, coral, amber, and other precious materials. These were the red-carpet accessories of their day!
Construction & Craftsmanship
When you’re trying to figure out if a comb is the real deal, look closely at how it’s made:
- Handcrafted vs. Machine-Made: Early in the century, most decorative combs were handcrafted by skilled artisans. But as time marched on, they were being mass-produced with mechanical die-stamping. Here’s how to spot the difference—handmade pieces have tiny irregularities, while machine-made ones are more uniform.
- Joinery: In high-quality combs, you’ll barely see where the decorative elements connect to the functional teeth. It’s like the difference between custom furniture and cheap assembly-line stuff—quality shows in the seams (or lack of them).
- Carving Techniques: The authentic antique pieces showcase how skilled artisans could make horn or tortoiseshell look like delicate lace. Look for amazing designs inspired by nature—curling leaves, detailed flowers, and even insects that look like they might fly away.
- Detail Work: The finer the details, the more desirable the comb! The level of detail in the intricate carvings, delicate metal work, pierced work, delicate filigree, engraved patterns, and inlay techniques like pique tells a lot about the age and authenticity of an old comb.
Signs of Authenticity
Want to make sure the comb you’re holding is a real antique piece? Here’s what to check:
- Patina: Real antiques age in specific ways. Celluloid often develops a greenish patina, while silver tarnishes in a particular pattern. Fakes often look “too clean” or have artificial aging that doesn’t quite look right.
- Wear Patterns: Where was this comb actually used? Authentic pieces show wear in logical places—where they’d rub against the head or where hands would hold them. Fake “distressing” usually misses these subtle clues.
- Construction Methods: Check how it’s put together. Hand-finishing leaves different marks than machine production. Those tiny file marks or slight asymmetry? Those are good things!
- Material Timeline Check: Make sure the materials match the supposed age. For example, if someone tries to sell you a “1920s” comb made from a plastic that wasn’t invented until the 1950s, you know something’s fishy.
- Style Consistency: The design elements should make sense for the period. Mixing Victorian motifs with Art Deco geometric patterns? That’s a red flag!
What Makes a Vintage Hair Comb Valuable? (4 Key Factors)
The value of an antique comb isn’t an independent affair; several factors play a vital role in determining whether a comb will be valuable or not.
Condition
Let’s talk about condition—it can make or break a comb’s value:
First and foremost, check those teeth! Missing or broken teeth can slash a comb’s value real quick! Also, take a close look at any decorative elements—all those gems, pearls, or inlaid pieces should be present and accounted for.
And here’s another thing about antique combs: some wear is expected and even desirable—it shows the piece has been loved and used. But there’s a big difference between charming patina and damage. Pristine examples without any serious damage (which are rare!) can fetch prices many times higher than scratched-up examples.
When examining a potential piece, keep your eyes peeled for these common issues:
- Broken or missing teeth (the biggest value-killer)
- Cracks or chips in the material (especially in celluloid or Bakelite)
- Excessive tarnish on metal components
- Severe fading or discoloration
- Loose or missing decorative elements
Completeness
Remember those sets I mentioned? Victorian ladies often bought their combs in trios—one showpiece for the top bun and matching side combs. Finding a complete set today is like finding matching luggage at a thrift store—rare and valuable!
Complete sets can be worth several times more than individual combs. So, check that all original elements are present. That gorgeous Spanish mantilla comb isn’t quite the same if half the decorative prongs are missing.
The holy grail? Finding a comb in its original box. If you stumble across an antique comb nestled in its original silk-lined box with documentation, you’ve struck collector gold! These complete packages can double or even triple the value.
Rarity & Collectibility
In the world of antiques, rare usually equals valuable. Here’s what makes a hair comb rare:
- Age Factor: As a general rule, the older the comb, the rarer it is. So naturally, pre-Victorian examples are particularly scarce, as fewer have survived the centuries. Finding an 18th-century comb in good condition can be something special!
- Unique Design Elements: Those one-of-a-kind artistic pieces—especially Art Deco Bakelite combs with bold designs or intricately carved Victorian pieces—stand out from the mass-produced pieces. Collectors tend to pay premium prices for something truly unique.
- Famous Owner: Did the comb belong to someone notable? Combs with documented history linking them to historical figures or events carry what collectors call a “provenance premium.” A basic tortoiseshell comb might fetch $50-100, but the same comb owned by a famous actress could sell for thousands!
- Limited Production Pieces: Limited edition hand-crafted combs made by known artisans are much rarer than factory-made examples. The fewer made, the more valuable they tend to be.
- Cultural Treasures: Japanese kushi combs, traditional African combs, and authentic Spanish mantilla combs have cultural significance that attracts specialized collectors willing to pay more.
Brands/Makers
Even though many combs are unmarked, a recognized maker’s name can significantly boost value. For example, finding a comb made by Tiffany & Co. or designed by Lalique? Ka-ching! These prestigious names can multiply the value many times over compared to similar unmarked pieces.
Similarly, examples from hair accessory pioneers like Kent Brushes (the first hair brush manufacturing company, established way back in 1777), Fuller Brush Company, and Mason Pearson are considered highly valuable.
But some notable makers did sign their work, such as:
- Lalique: If you’re lucky enough to find a Lalique, you’ve struck gold. This famous French jeweler and glassmaker created some of the most stunning Art Nouveau combs ever made.
- Dominick & Haff: This American silversmith made gorgeous ornamental hair combs in the 19th century. Sometimes they marked their pieces with numbers—not super obvious, but definitely there if you know what to look for.
- Tiffany & Co.: Yes, that Tiffany! They created sterling silver brushes and combs with their distinctive silver marks.
- Japanese Masters: Some Japanese combs, especially from the Meiji Period (1868-1912), have signatures along the edge. They’re often subtle—these artists weren’t showing off—but they’re there.
- Goodyear: Some vulcanite combs have markings like “I.R. Comb Co Goodyear” with a date. These are the comb-world equivalent of finding a signed baseball.
- Countess Cis: A more recent maker who started creating jewelry in 1951. Her hair ornaments in gilt metal with crystals and pearls have their own distinctive style.
Pieces from known Japanese, Spanish, or other regional experts command higher prices, especially among collectors focusing on specific cultures or regions.
6 Examples of Rare Antique Combs Worth Collecting!
1. Antique Tiffany Sterling Silver Signed Comb
This is what I call the crown jewel of hair combs! It’s an exquisite 1870s Tiffany masterpiece with that gorgeous citrine stone gleaming from the center and absolutely mind-blowing silver work.
Authentic Tiffany sterling silver pieces from the 1870s, especially those bearing the Tiffany signature and in good condition, command premium prices! For authentic Tiffany silver from this period with the signature intact AND in decent shape, $2,000 is actually pretty fair!
2. Mounted Celluloid Coral Comb
This one’s a real stunner – that vibrant orange coral against the dark celluloid base creates such a striking contrast! What really makes this comb special is how they’ve arranged the coral – it’s asymmetrical but somehow perfectly balanced.
These went out of fashion when the flapper bob came in during the ’20s, but they’re serious collector’s items now. $800 might seem hefty, but considering the condition of that coral and how rare these are getting, it’s worth the money!
3. Antique F.A. Durgin St Louis Victorian Haircomb
Made around 1870 by F.A. Durgin in St. Louis – right during America’s silversmithing golden age, this is a rare piece. Durgin wasn’t as well-known as Gorham or Tiffany, but the quality of their work speaks for itself.
Just look at that crown-like design at the top! Besides, the cutwork is so delicate that finding it in such a pristine condition makes it museum material. The tiara-style top with delicate cutwork and elaborate scrolling patterns, absolute genius!
What makes this extra special is that it’s a regional piece from St. Louis rather than the usual New York or Boston makers. Midwestern silver from this period doesn’t turn up nearly as often. Whoever snags this is getting a serious piece of American craftsmanship.
4. Antique Bohemian Garnet Flower Tiara Hair Comb
This exquisite Bohemian garnet flower hair comb tiara represents craftsmanship and tradition. It’s adorned with Bohemian garnets, which come from what’s now the Czech Republic, though back when this was made, folks called it Bohemia.
The region was famous for these particular garnets – technically called pyropes, treasured since ancient times for their vibrant color and inner glow. And these gems are what make this antique hair comb worth $500!
5. Antique Japanese Kanzashi Kimono Hair Comb
This kushi comb is an absolute gem! The “raden” technique they’ve used here – that’s the mother-of-pearl inlay – gives it this otherworldly glow that photos really can’t capture. The craftsmanship is just commendable- Japanese artisans have always been in a league of their own.
Those nature motifs weren’t just decorative either – they usually had symbolic meanings. Birds, flowers, bamboo – each element told a little story about the wearer or the season. At $330, this is actually a steal. The antique raden work alone is worth that.
6. Antique Black Dyed Horn Mourning Hair Comb
If this comb could talk! Victorian mourning culture was something else entirely. This black horn (sold at $150) comb would have been part of the elaborate mourning tradition. You can tell it’s horn from the slight grain pattern – they dyed these jet black for mourning wear.
The carving on the top portion is pretty intricate for horn, which isn’t as easy to work with as tortoiseshell. The openwork crown design with those floral and scroll details is really beautiful. You can find these for $50-$300+, based on condition.
