13 Antique Pocket Watch Brands to Collect (Expert’s List)

A lavish, vintage pocket watch collection is quite common for antique lovers! And the most demanded watches for this collection are the Jewel-faced, branded watches!

But the problem is that there are many first-edition copies of real branded watches in the market. And I often find people needing help with authentic watch brands.

So, today I will list down 13 antique pocket watch brands and their features for your help! Be it any vintage shop or site; you can refer to these brands for more value!

Key Takeaways

  • Brands such as Bulova and Frederique Constant are the best for steel and chrome-finished antique watches. 
  • Elgin and Tiffany’s watches are the best yellowish-gold pocket watches.
  • Pick Baume & Mercier or Tissot watches if you want a rare, high-value pocket watch.
  • Stuhrling or Patek Philippe are the best for Skeleton-style watches. Similarly, brands like Kronen & Sohne and Waltham have beautiful, hunter-style pocket watches. 
  • Longines is a great brand for antique sports watches, whereas you’ll get beautiful Railroad watches from Hamilton.

2 Cues to Spot Your Pocket Watch’s Brand

1. Check the Serial Number

You’ll get serial numbers or batch codes on your old pocket watch’s back. They will help you trace its brand, location, and value. So, check those from the PM Time Database before buying one!

2. Inspect the Logo

Most antique pocket watch brands will have a logo to spot them. Like, Baumé & Mercier has a bronze button, while Bulova has a signed dial. So, make sure not to miss the logo of the watch!

13 Antique Pocket Watch Brands for Your Collection

1. Bulova

Want to have a polished, steel antique watch with blue and silver jewels? Try trendy Bulova watches from 19th Century New York. These will have a flexible hunter case design and jeweled dials. Plus, you’ll see a signed logo on its face and back.

How Do You Identify Vintage Bulova Pocket Watches?

  • Silver-toned stainless steel dial with three hands and a calendar
  • Japanese quartz movements with pointed, spade-like hands
  • A 50 mm steel case with synthetic sapphire motifs
  • 18-jewel movement and cushioned dials
Year1875 – 1880
Average Valuation$750 – 1000
Pocket Watch StyleOpen Case or Demi-hunter

Look out for New York, Swiss, and American Bulova watches for a better valuation.

2. Elgin

If you want a shiny, gold pocket watch, then Elgin (1932) is the perfect brand for you. You’ll get its designs with dual dials and covers.

You’ll also see a signed ‘Elgin’ or E-shaped logo on its dial. Other than that, Elgin watches have hand-polished dials and surfaces.

What Are the Key Features of Elgin Watches?

  • Strong cast-iron body with a yellow or coral gold polish
  • Star or Balance shaped logo and trademark at the back of the casing
  • A mini ‘seconds’ dial and additional framing at the bottom
  • Mid-quality 14-k gold casing
Year1900 – 1960
Average Valuation$1000 – 7000
Pocket Watch StyleFull hunter or Demi hunter

Never buy any pocket watch with an ‘Elgin movement’ stamp on it. These might be new and first-edition models.

3. Tiffany & Co

Another brand for the old yellow-gold pocket watch lovers out there! Tiffany & Co (1900) is perfect for split-style and luxurious pocket watches. Most will have an Arabic numeral dial, silver hands, and gold casings. Manual keys and handles are also common.

How Do You Spot Old Tiffany & Co Pocket Watches?

  • Handcrafted gold or silver frames with a 44mm case and split time chronograph
  • Golden dials with a small calendar, minute repeater, and second-hand markings
  • Manually wound mechanism and a single winding hole
  • Soldered watch links and a black, etched logo on the front
Year1900 – 1950
Average Valuation$4000 – 15,000
Pocket Watch StyleRailroad, Full Hunter or Skeleton

Pick watches signed by Frank Gehry or Elsa Peretti for a high valuation.

4. Baume & Mercier

Baume & Mercier is another precious pocket watch brand to collect! Their watches have a rich, rose-gold finish and leather straps for holding. With this one, you can also expect to see some minute repeaters and chimes.

But what’s more interesting is that there are only 30 pieces of this watch worldwide. So, it’s the rarest and the most costly of them all!

What to Look for in a Baume & Mercier Watch?

  • 14 – 18k metallic frames with double borders and glossy finishes
  • Black or brown leather straps with an embossed button logo and lock
  • 0.65-carat diamond casing with reddish numerals and markers
  • An hour chiming mechanism with a 5-minute repeater
Year1710 – 1750
Average Valuation$50,000 – 55,000
Pocket Watch StyleOpen case or Railroad

5. Waltham

Waltham, an 1850s brand, produced the first factory-made watches in the world. So, many of their models are easy to get. All you need to look for is an ‘A.W.W.Co’ sign and a serial number at the back! You can even look for patterned moldings to spot them!

Other Ways to Spot a Waltham Watch

  • Hinged back case and some welded threads to screw the chain
  • Serial numbers and maker name on the inside surface
  • Look for an embossed signature if its a newer piece
  • 14-carat gold hallmarks and embellishments
  • Additional accessories like crystal watch stands and chain holders on the top
Year1850 – 1900
Average Valuation$500 – 5000
Pocket Watch StyleFull hunter or Demi hunter

Pick Waltham’s CPR (Canadian Pacific Railway) or CRTS (Canadian Railway Time Service) models to upscale the valuation.

6. Tissot

Tissot is a Swiss brand from the early 1850s. It makes rich, English-style unisex clock designs, quartz dials, and sleek models.

Plus, these watches are neutral, framed, and come without additional clasps. So, if you are looking for a luxurious, premium brand, Tissot is the one!

How Do You Spot Old Tissot Watches?

  • Bold and Italic numbered watch with automatic, self-winding hands
  • 15-20 jewels on the case, and a 9-10k gold border
  • Light colored pink, yellow, or orange casements and watch frames
Year1850 – 1900
Average Valuation$3500 – 4000
Pocket Watch StyleFull hunter or Demi hunter

Choose gold or pinkish case jewels and frames for an old and authorized Tissot make.

7. Stuhrling

The Stuhrling brand is popular for its thick and carved skeleton watches. These vintage watches have an open frame and a small opening that shows their movement. Plus, you’ll get bold, red, or blue hands and dual dials with these.

What Are the Characteristics of Stuhrling Watches?

  • Golden, non-numbered dials with 6-10 jewels on the sides
  • Solid, stainless steel frames with a yellow-gold or brass finish
  • Optional additional second hand calibrations in etched white ink
  • Silver or chrome-plated gears and wheels at the back
  • A 30-35 hour winding system, with a small winding hole at the bottom
Year1900s
Average Valuation$200 – 400
Pocket Watch StyleSkeleton styled

8. Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe is a premium, custom-made brand that makes watches with multi-dial faces and white paper dials. You can get your watches encased in gold, steel, or whatever finish you like. Plus, there may be some additional tidal dials or calendars too!

But Patek Philippe’s clocks come with a frame gap. So, they may not be as water-resistant as other brands. But they still fetch a high value due to their unique hand polish and decoration.

How Do You Identify Vintage Patek Philippe Watches?

  • Crisp paper white dials with single diamond setting and golden numbers
  • Patterned, contour-like faces with a time-date movement and chime
  • Manually wound key clock with a 50-hour capacity
Year1830s – 1840
Average Valuation$20,000 – 35,000
Pocket Watch StyleOpen case or Skeleton models

Rub the watch and check if the crown and pushers are still functional for better returns.

9. Longines

Longines is a brand for antique sport watch collectors! This 19th-Century Swiss brand makes 3-dialed watches with a rose-gold finish that looks lavish! Plus, these are touched up with horse-jockey or athlete cases.

What Are the Key Features of Longines Watches?

  • A 3-dialed frame with a 12-hour main frame and 30-second dial
  • Shiny, copper-like cases with a signed logo and trademark in the center
  • Crisp white dial with a 60-second marking on the circumference
  • A winged hourglass logo and a batch number on the dial
Year1832 – 1900
Average Valuation$500 – 5000
Pocket Watch StyleOpen case or Railroad models

10. Kronen & Sohne

Kronen & Sohne is a premium German pocket watch brand from the 1850s. Its watches are quite portable and easy to use. They are factory-made, and you also get an international warranty card and tax receipt for tracking.

What to Look for in a Kronen & Sohne Watch?

  • Sleek and streamlined dials with a rich, yellow-gold finish
  • Full display mechanical dials with exposed gears and pulleys
  • Etched numerals in shiny black ink and a serif font
  • Embossed gold motifs and a signed logo on the dial face
Year1850 – 1900
Average Valuation$500 – 1000
Pocket Watch StyleOpen case or Full hunter models

11. Charles-Hubert

This 19th Century mechanical watch brand offers lovely, composite material watches. Like, you’ll see aged, yellowish brass for the frames and steel for the chains.

Also, remember that these watches will be larger and heavier than the rest. So, they will also fetch a good value at auctions.

How to Spot a Charles-Hubert Watch Easily?

  • Dual skeleton dial and chrome finished frames
  • Automatic Swiss quartz movement and a 24-hr winding key
  • 47mm hunter case and curb chain
  • Silver, Arabic-lettered dials and a second-hand scale on the outside
Year1900s
Average Valuation$1000 – 1200
Pocket Watch StyleFull hunter or Demi hunter models

Charles-Hubert pocket watches often fade and turn brownish with age. So you repolish and lacquer them after 2-3 years.

12. Hamilton

Hamilton is easily one of the most accurate and functional watches of the 19th Century. The brand is popular for its Railroad watches, with a round dial and two hands. The materials may be average, but the brand’s unique, hand-crafted designs hike the valuation.

Back then, Hamilton was a brand for railroad workers. It helped them avoid accidents. But today, it’s more in demand among antique lovers looking for a raw, industrial touch to their collection!

What Are the Typical Features of Hamilton Watches?

  • Double-numbered dial with a 60-second numbering on the outer edge
  • 13 – 21 jewel designs and a thicker, bordered dial face
  • Signed crowns with the word ‘Hamilton’ or ‘H’ logo on the top
Year1892
Average Valuation$5000 – 9000
Pocket Watch StyleRailroad or Open case watches

13. Frederique Constant

Frederique Constant is a high-end, luxurious brand from the 1980s. It has plated or galvanized frames and Swiss-made casings and chains. With about 18 jewels and a thick 42mm case, Frederique Constant watches really are precious!

What to Look for in a Frederique Constant Watch?

  • Stainless steel or Rosegold-plated frames with diagonal patterns and textures
  • Handwritten Roman dials and Sapphire cases
  • Winding key with a 42-hour power reserve and etched serial numbers
  • Classic diamond designs and additional accessories like wooden gift boxes and polished chains
Year1988
Average Valuation$2000 – 10000
Pocket Watch StyleOpen case watches

3 Easy Tricks to Verify an Authentic Pocket Watch Brand

  • Look for hallmarked gold cases with a 14k, 18k or 750 stamp. If there’s no stamp, it isn’t gold and branded!
  • Weigh the clock! Check if its weight falls between 78 – 120 grams for an original brand!
  • Check the jewels! Branded pocket watches will usually have 5 – 16 jewels on their faces.

Which Is the Most Valuable Vintage Pocket Watch Brand?

Patek Philippe, Baume & Mercier, and Tiffany are the most valuable vintage pocket watch brands. But you can even pick some models from Hamilton, Longines, and Elgin for a high value!

Who Made the Best Pocket Watches in the 1800s?

Longines, Patek Philippe, and Bulova made the best pocket watches in the 1800s. Of these, Bulova deals with silver watches, Patek Phillipe with gold, and Longines with a rose-gold finish.

Which Is the Best Place to Sell Old, Branded Pocket Watches?

You can sell your branded pocket watches on any e-commerce platform like eBay, Live Auctioneers, and Etsy. You can even arrange offline auctions and bids at any nearby antique shop.

We all know that old and rare pocket watches are very precious today! But you can also pick branded, jeweled pieces for a better valuation. So, select your watch’s finish and case, scroll through our list, and we’ll tell you a brand that suits you the best!

And jump onto our blog on ‘How to identify and value old pocket watches’ if you need some help with the cost!

Judith Miller
Judith Miller

Judith is an antique expert with nearly 20 years of experience in the field of antique identification and valuation. She has reviewed over 30 thousand vintage items and has worked with numerous antique shops. She enjoys seeing new places, attending antique shows and events, and sharing her knowledge with people! Know more about me

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