A lavish, vintage pocket watch collection is quite common for antique lovers! And the most demanded watches for this collection are the Jewel-faced, branded watches!
But the problem is that there are many first-edition copies of real branded watches in the market. And I often find people needing help with authentic watch brands.
So, today I will list down 13 antique pocket watch brands and their features for your help! Be it any vintage shop or site; you can refer to these brands for more value!
Key Takeaways
- Brands such as Bulova and Frederique Constant are the best for steel and chrome-finished antique watches.
- Elgin and Tiffany’s watches are the best yellowish-gold pocket watches.
- Pick Baume & Mercier or Tissot watches if you want a rare, high-value pocket watch.
- Stuhrling or Patek Philippe are the best for Skeleton-style watches. Similarly, brands like Kronen & Sohne and Waltham have beautiful, hunter-style pocket watches.
- Longines is a great brand for antique sports watches, whereas you’ll get beautiful Railroad watches from Hamilton.
How to Track Your Pocket Watch’s Brand
1. Check the Serial Number
You’ll find serial numbers or batch codes on the back of your old pocket watch. These will help you trace its brand, location, and value. So, check those from the PM Time Database before buying one!
2. Inspect the Logo
Most antique pocket watch brands will have a logo to spot them. Like, Baumé & Mercier has a bronze button, while Bulova has a signed dial. So, make sure not to miss the logo of the watch!
13 Antique Pocket Watch Brands for Your Collection
1. Bulova
Want to have a polished, steel antique watch with blue and silver jewels? Try trendy Bulova watches from 19th Century New York. These will have a flexible hunter case design and jeweled dials. Plus, you’ll see a signed logo on its face and back.
Key Identification Features of Bulova Pocket Watches
- Silver-toned stainless steel dial with three hands and a calendar
- Japanese quartz movements with pointed, spade-like hands
- A 50 mm steel case with synthetic sapphire motifs
- 18-jewel movement and cushioned dials
| Year | 1875 – 1880 |
| Average Valuation | $750 – 1000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Open Case or Demi-hunter |
Look out for New York, Swiss, and American Bulova watches for a better valuation.
2. Elgin
If you want a shiny, gold pocket watch, then Elgin (1932) is the perfect brand for you. You’ll get its designs with dual dials and covers.
You’ll also see a signed ‘Elgin’ or E-shaped logo on its dial. Other than that, Elgin watches have hand-polished dials and surfaces.
Key Identification Features of Elgin Watches
- Strong cast-iron body with a yellow or coral-gold polish
- Star or Balance shaped logo and trademark at the back of the casing
- A mini ‘seconds’ dial and additional framing at the bottom
- Mid-quality 14-k gold casing
| Year | 1900 – 1960 |
| Average Valuation | $1000 – 7000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Full hunter or Demi hunter |
Never buy any pocket watch with an ‘Elgin Movement’ stamp on it. These might be new and first-edition models.
3. Tiffany & Co
Another brand for the old yellow-gold pocket watch lovers out there! Tiffany & Co (1900) is perfect for split-style and luxurious pocket watches. Most will have an Arabic numeral dial, silver hands, and gold casings. Manual keys and handles are also common.
Key Identification Features of Tiffany & Co Pocket Watches
- Handcrafted gold or silver frames with a 44mm case and split time chronograph
- Golden dials with a small calendar, minute repeater, and second-hand markings
- Manually wound mechanism and a single winding hole
- Soldered watch links and a black, etched logo on the front
| Year | 1900 – 1950 |
| Average Valuation | $4000 – 15,000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Railroad, Full Hunter or Skeleton |
Pick watches signed by Frank Gehry or Elsa Peretti for a high valuation.
4. Baume & Mercier
Baume & Mercier is another precious pocket watch brand to collect! Their watches have a rich, rose-gold finish and leather straps for holding. With this one, you can also expect to see some minute repeaters and chimes.
But what’s more interesting is that there are only 30 pieces of this watch worldwide. So, it’s the rarest and the most costly of them all!
Key Identification Features of Baume & Mercier Watch
- 14 – 18k metallic frames with double borders and glossy finishes
- Black or brown leather straps with an embossed button logo and lock
- 0.65-carat diamond casing with reddish numerals and markers
- An hour chiming mechanism with a 5-minute repeater
| Year | 1710 – 1750 |
| Average Valuation | $50,000 – 55,000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Open case or Railroad |
5. Waltham
Waltham, an 1850s brand, produced the first factory-made watches in the world. So, many of their models are easy to get. All you need to look for is an ‘A.W.W.Co’ sign and a serial number at the back! You can even look for patterned moldings to spot Waltham pocket watches!
Key Identification Features of Waltham Pocket Watch
- Hinged back case and some welded threads to screw the chain
- Serial numbers and maker name on the inside surface
- Look for an embossed signature if its a newer piece
- 14-carat gold hallmarks and embellishments
- Additional accessories like crystal watch stands and chain holders on the top
| Year | 1850 – 1900 |
| Average Valuation | $500 – 5000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Full hunter or Demi hunter |
To upscale the valuation, use Waltham’s CPR (Canadian Pacific Railway) or CRTS (Canadian Railway Time Service) models.
6. Tissot
Tissot is a Swiss brand from the early 1850s. It makes rich, English-style unisex clock designs, quartz dials, and sleek models.
Plus, these watches are neutral, framed, and come without additional clasps. So, if you are looking for a luxurious, premium brand, Tissot is the one!
Key Identification Features of Tissot Watches
- Bold and Italic numbered watch with automatic, self-winding hands
- 15-20 jewels on the case, and a 9-10k gold border
- Light-colored pink, yellow, or orange casements and watch frames
| Year | 1850 – 1900 |
| Average Valuation | $3500 – 4000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Full hunter or Demi hunter |
Choose gold or pinkish case jewels and frames for an old and authorized Tissot make.
7. Stuhrling
The Stuhrling brand is popular for its thick, carved skeleton watches. These vintage watches have an open frame and a small opening that shows their movement. Plus, they have bold, red, or blue hands and dual dials.
Key Identification Features of Stuhrling Pocket Watches
- Golden, non-numbered dials with 6-10 jewels on the sides
- Solid, stainless steel frames with a yellow-gold or brass finish
- Optional additional second-hand calibrations in etched white ink
- Silver or chrome-plated gears and wheels at the back
- A 30-35 hour winding system, with a small winding hole at the bottom
| Year | 1900s |
| Average Valuation | $200 – 400 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Skeleton styled |
8. Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe is a premium, custom-made brand that makes watches with multi-dial faces and white paper dials. You can get your watches encased in gold, steel, or whatever finish you like. Plus, there may be some additional tidal dials or calendars too!
But Patek Philippe’s clocks come with a frame gap. So, they may not be as water-resistant as other brands. But they still fetch a high value due to their unique hand polish and decoration.
Key Identification Features of Patek Philippe Watches
- Crisp paper white dials with single diamond setting and golden numbers
- Patterned, contour-like faces with a time-date movement and chime
- Manually wound key clock with a 50-hour capacity
| Year | 1830s – 1840 |
| Average Valuation | $20,000 – 35,000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Open case or Skeleton models |
Rub the watch and check if the crown and pushers are still functional for better returns.
9. Longines
Longines is a brand for antique sports watch collectors! This 19th-century Swiss brand makes 3-dialed watches with a rose-gold finish that looks lavish! Plus, these are touched up with horse-jockey or athlete cases.
Key Identification Features of Longines Watches
- A 3-dialed frame with a 12-hour main frame and 30-second dial
- Shiny, copper-like cases with a signed logo and trademark in the center
- Crisp white dial with a 60-second marking on the circumference
- A winged hourglass logo and a batch number on the dial
| Year | 1832 – 1900 |
| Average Valuation | $500 – 5000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Open case or Railroad models |
10. Kronen & Sohne
Kronen & Sohne is a premium German pocket watch brand from the 1850s. Its watches are quite portable and easy to use. They are factory-made, and you also get an international warranty card and tax receipt for tracking.
Key Identification Features of Kronen & Sohne Watch
- Sleek and streamlined dials with a rich, yellow-gold finish
- Full-display mechanical dials with exposed gears and pulleys
- Etched numerals in shiny black ink and a serif font
- Embossed gold motifs and a signed logo on the dial face
| Year | 1850 – 1900 |
| Average Valuation | $500 – 1000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Open case or Full hunter models |
11. Charles-Hubert
This 19th-century mechanical watch brand offers lovely composite-material watches. The frames are aged, yellowish brass, and the chains are steel.
Also, remember that these watches will be larger and heavier than the rest. So, they will also fetch a good value at auctions.
Key Identification Features Charles-Hubert Watch
- Dual skeleton dial and chrome-finished frames
- Automatic Swiss quartz movement and a 24-hr winding key
- 47mm hunter case and curb chain
- Silver, Arabic-lettered dials and a second-hand scale on the outside
| Year | 1900s |
| Average Valuation | $1000 – 1200 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Full hunter or Demi hunter models |
Charles-Hubert pocket watches often fade and turn brownish with age. So you repolish and lacquer them after 2-3 years.
12. Hamilton
Hamilton is easily one of the most accurate and functional watches of the 19th Century. The brand is popular for its Railroad watches, with a round dial and two hands. The materials may be average, but the brand’s unique, hand-crafted designs hike the valuation.
Back then, Hamilton was a brand for railroad workers. It helped them avoid accidents. But today, it’s more in demand among antique lovers looking for a raw, industrial touch to their collection!
Key Identification Features of Hamilton Watches
- Double-numbered dial with a 60-second numbering on the outer edge
- 13 – 21 jewel designs and a thicker, bordered dial face
- Signed crowns with the word ‘Hamilton’ or ‘H’ logo on the top
| Year | 1892 |
| Average Valuation | $5000 – 9000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Railroad or Open case watches |
13. Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant is a high-end, luxurious brand from the 1980s. It has plated or galvanized frames and Swiss-made casings and chains. With about 18 jewels and a thick 42mm case, Frederique Constant watches really are precious!
Key Identification Features of Frederique Constant Watch
- Stainless steel or Rosegold-plated frames with diagonal patterns and textures
- Handwritten Roman dials and Sapphire cases
- Winding key with a 42-hour power reserve and etched serial numbers
- Classic diamond designs and additional accessories like wooden gift boxes and polished chains
| Year | 1988 |
| Average Valuation | $2000 – 10000 |
| Pocket Watch Style | Open case watches |
3 Easy Tricks to Verify an Authentic Pocket Watch Brand
- Look for hallmarked gold cases with a 14k, 18k, or 750 stamps. If there’s no stamp, it isn’t gold and branded!
- Weigh the clock! Check if its weight falls between 78 – 120 grams for an original brand!
- Check the jewels! Branded pocket watches will usually have 5 – 16 jewels on their faces.
Which Is the Most Valuable Vintage Pocket Watch Brand?
Patek Philippe, Baume & Mercier, and Tiffany are the most valuable vintage pocket watch brands. But you can even pick some models from Hamilton, Longines, and Elgin for a high value!
Who Made the Best Pocket Watches in the 1800s?
Longines, Patek Philippe, and Bulova made the best pocket watches in the 1800s. Of these, Bulova deals with silver watches, Patek Phillipe with gold, and Longines with a rose-gold finish.
Which Is the Best Place to Sell Old, Branded Pocket Watches?
You can sell your branded pocket watches on any e-commerce platform like eBay, Live Auctioneers, and Etsy. You can even arrange offline auctions and bids at any nearby antique shop.
We all know that old and rare pocket watches are very precious today! But you can also pick branded, jeweled pieces for a better valuation. So, select your watch’s finish and case, scroll through our list, and we’ll tell you a brand that suits you the best!
Jump onto our blog on How to identify and value old pocket watches if you need help with the value and identification of old watches!
