Vintage ties are one of the most common things you’ll see at estate sales and thrift stores. Probably that’s why people usually skip through them. But those who know that certain vintage ties can actually sell for up to $500, sometimes more, never walk past that section.
So yes, vintage ties are absolutely collectible. The key is knowing which ones actually bring money. This guide walks you through the brands and tie designs that collectors chase, with real examples.
What Makes a Vintage Tie Valuable?
As you can see above, there are several things that separate a $5 tie from a $200 one. Here is a deeper breakdown of the value factors.
The brand label is the most crucial factor. A French-made Hermès or an Italian-made Gucci with the right markings can be worth 20 to 50 times what a generic department store tie sells for.
Material matters next. Look for 100% silk (especially with hand-rolled edges), wool, or rayon. Most polyester ties from the 1970s and 80s sit at the bottom of the market.
Age helps, but only when paired with design or brand. Pre-1980 is the loose definition of “vintage.” Pre-1960 ties pull a stronger collector interest, and pre-1940 examples are genuinely scarce. Hand-painted designs from the 1940s, novelty prints, and rare designer collaborations command the biggest premiums regardless of age.
Condition and labels are non-negotiable. A faded, stained, or shrunken tie loses most of its value, and a missing label can drop it by half. With those filters in mind, here are the brands and designs collectors actually pay for.
9 Valuable Vintage Tie Brands and Designs Worth Collecting
1
Hermès Silk Ties
Typically sells for $75 to $300+
- Production period: Late 1940s to present
- Material: Hand-stitched silk twill
- Key features: Numbered designs, equestrian motifs
- Collector notes: Authentication critical, fakes common
Hermès is the most consistently collected tie brand on the market, with the hand-stitched silk twill ties being the most desirable. These ties carry a small four-character code on the back that identifies each design.
Pre-1990 examples with the “Hermès Paris Made in France” label sell for the highest premiums. Fakes are common at this price point, so always check the label.
2
Gianni Versace Medusa & Baroque Ties
Typically sells for $40 to $160
- Production period: Late 1980s through 1997
- Material: Printed Italian silk
- Key features: Medusa logo, baroque gold prints
- Collector notes: Skip licensee diffusion labels
The “pre-death” Gianni Versace ties from the late 1980s through 1997 are the ones worth looking out for at thrift stores.
Look for the Medusa head logo, baroque gold prints, and 1980s paisleys. The label should read “Gianni Versace Made in Italy,” not “Versace Jeans Couture” or any licensee tag. Rare Atelier patchwork pieces have sold for $250+.
3
Gucci Luxury Ties
Typically sells for $50 to $300
- Production period: 1970s to early 1990s
- Material: 100% Italian silk
- Key features: GG monogram, horsebit motifs
- Collector notes: Box adds 20-30% premium
Vintage Gucci ties from the 70s and 80s carry the brand’s most recognizable patterns: the interlocking GG monogram, the horsebit, and small repeat prints of golf clubs, glasses, and animals. Italian-made, 100% silk. Mint deadstock with the original box can easily fetch over $200.
4
Yves Saint Laurent & Salvatore Ferragamo Ties
Typically sells for $30 to $130
- Production period: 1960s through 1990s
- Material: Heavy printed silk
- Key features: YSL graphics, Ferragamo animals
- Collector notes: Often underpriced at thrift
Two designer names in a similar category. Vintage YSL is known for bold graphic prints from the 60s and 70s, with the “Rive Gauche” label as the marker. The monogram designs are among the most collectible.
Ferragamo built its reputation on playful animal motifs (cats, birds, small critters) printed on heavy silk, identified by the Gancini buckle label.
5
Jerry Garcia Art Ties
Typically sells for $20 to $175 (signed examples go higher)
- Production period: Early to mid 1990s
- Material: 100% silk, Made in USA
- Key features: Named prints, Garcia artwork
- Collector notes: Stonehenge label beats Mulberry reprints
Just as the name says, these are literally wearable art. They feature Jerry Garcia’s paintings, produced by Stonehenge Ltd. through the 1990s. Each design has a name printed on the care tag. After Garcia’s 1995 death, the license moved to Mulberry Neckwear, and quality dropped.
Original Stonehenge ties with paper tags command the premium, and signed examples have reached $1,000 at auction.
6
Countess Mara Ties
Typically sells for $20 to $120
- Production period: 1930s through late 1980s
- Material: Hand-printed silk
- Key features: Embroidered CM cipher
- Collector notes: Underrated American luxury maker
Countess Mara is an underrated American mid-century name. It was a New York luxury tie maker active from the 1930s through the 1980s, known for hand-printed silks and small-run patterns.
The embroidered “CM” cipher on the front blade and the “Countess Mara New York” label are the identifiers.
7
Brooks Brothers Ties
Typically sells for $15 to $60
- Production period: Pre-1990 Madison Avenue era
- Material: Repp silk weaves
- Key features: Regimental stripes, gold script label
- Collector notes: Solid entry point for beginners
Pre-1990 Brooks Brothers ties from the original Madison Avenue era hold steady collector demand, especially the classic regimental stripes and repp silk patterns.
The gold script “Brooks Brothers Makers” label dates the strongest examples. These vintage ties are affordable, easy to find, and respected by people who wear vintage menswear.
8
Hand-Painted 1940s Swing Era Ties
Typically sells for $25 to $100+
- Production period: Late 1940s to early 1950s
- Material: Rayon or silk base
- Key features: Hand-painted, brush strokes visible
- Collector notes: Signed pieces command a premium
These wide ties (4 to 5 inches) carry designs painted directly on rayon or silk, with scenic motifs, pin-ups, and Art Deco abstracts running across the category. Common labels you’ll see include Pilgrim, Towncraft, Wembley, and Superba.
Collector’s tip: Look for visible brush strokes, the wide cut, and slight color variation between same-design ties.
9
Emilio Pucci & 1960s–70s Mod Ties
Typically sells for $25 to $125+
- Production period: Mid-1960s through 1970s
- Material: Italian silk twill
- Key features: Op-art prints, Emilio signature
- Collector notes: Color saturation drives value
Emilio Pucci defined the psychedelic 60s and 70s tie with bold op-art prints and the “Emilio” signature woven into the border. Every authentic piece is 100% silk, made in Italy or the USA.
Unlabeled mod-era kipper ties from the same period also have a collector following, with print quality and color saturation driving the price.
Note: This article is intended for informational, educational, and entertainment purposes only. Some images are illustrative and may not represent actual brands, products, or related entities. All trademarks, product names, brand logos, packaging, and other intellectual property referenced remain the exclusive property of their respective owners. Any brand mentions or references are provided solely for descriptive and educational context and do not imply any formal or commercial association.
