Ever wondered if that dusty locket in grandma’s jewelry box might be worth a fortune? Well, it is! Antique lockets are one of the highly collectible jewelry pieces that collectors are paying top dollar for these days!
So, in this guide, I will explain how to spot a valuable antique locket by analyzing its style, design, and material. You’ll also find a list of 13 rarest vintage lockets that are worth hundreds to thousands and could already be hiding in your collection!
How to Identify a Valuable Vintage Locket? (5 Key Signs to Spot)
The value of an antique locket depends on several factors. Here’s a breakdown of these factors to help you spot a valuable locket.
Condition
Lockets in excellent condition, without any serious damage such as dents, scratches, missing stones, chips in enamel, or broken hinges, will typically fetch higher returns. The photo and hair compartments must have the intact glasses.
Also, the locket has to be functional to be valuable. For example, it should open and close securely. Any mechanical elements (like musical movements or hidden mechanisms, if present) should also be working properly.
Moreover, if the locket comes with its original chain and boxes, it will add more to the value. Similarly, original inner frames and photographs can also greatly enhance its value and provenance.
Style & Rarity
Antique lockets featuring unusual or innovative designs that stand out from typical lockets of a specific era are typically more sought after by collectors. Similarly, examples released as limited editions, especially by renowned makers, fetch high premiums.
Also, if a locket has some unusual features, such as hidden compartments, musical mechanisms, or automaton elements, it can be more valuable than standard, common examples.
Identifying the style of a locket can also hint at its rarity and desirability. For example, if an example features flowing lines and natural motifs, it may be an Art Nouveau piece, while geometric patterns and bold lines indicate an Art Deco make.
Examples deviating from these typical styles, only if authentic and vintage, can also be valuable.
Maker Marks & Purity Marks
Antique lockets produced by renowned jewelers like Fabergé, Cartier, Lalique, Tiffany & Co. (especially from earlier periods) generally command premium prices. Similarly, pieces designed by significant Arts and Crafts designers are also highly desirable.
The best way to identify the maker and possible age of an antique locket is by its marks and logos. That’s why collectors generally favor pieces with clear markings (engraved, stamped, etched, or embossed).
Apart from this, the presence of hallmarks on gold, silver, and platinum lockets is also crucial to spot, as they help verify the metal content and purity.
Material and Artistry
The type and quality of the material and craftsmanship significantly impact an old locket’s value.
- Precious Metals: Generally, antique lockets made of high-carat gold (14K or higher) or platinum are more valuable than those made of lower-grade gold, silver, or base metals. The size and weight of the locket and the purity of the metal also contribute greatly to the overall value.
- Handcraftsmanship: Vintage examples with ornate handcraftsmanship, such as intricate engraving, hand-chasing, or detailed filigree work, are generally more collectible. However, the sharpness of details can also impact the value.
- Gemstones: Lockets with rare gemstones are more desirable, depending on the number of stones, their quality, and type. Untreated diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds can double the value. Also, unusual or historically significant gemstone cuts also add to the value.
- Enamelwork: Details and well-preserved enamelwork, especially plique-à-jour (resembling stained glass) or finely painted scenes, are highly desirable features and can dramatically increase a locket’s value.
Provenance and History
If an antique locket has strong provenance or historical significance, it’ll automatically be rarer and more sought-after.
- Provenance: If a locket belonged to a notable historical figure or comes from a significant collection, it will be way more desirable for collectors. To identify, look for any accompanying documentation (receipts, letters, auction catalogs). An example is the Alfred E Smith Gold Photo Locket listed above.
- Valuable History: Old lockets related to important historical periods or movements, such as the Memento Mori lockets reflecting mourning traditions, are rarer due to their historical significance.
13 Rare Vintage Lockets to Find Right Now (With Pictures)
Here are the rarest antique lockets that have been selling for top dollar recently!
1. French Memento Mori 18k Gold Garnets Skull Locket Pendant
This is an 1880s antique locket featuring a detailed silver skull recessed into the black Onyx stone and decorated with red Garnet precious stones as the eyes.
The locket is associated with the tradition of the memento mori – an object made to remind us that life is short, making it historically significant and valuable. Depending on the gold content and condition, the value can range from $2,000 – $7,000+.
2. Russian Imperial Gold Enamel Damascene Locket
This unique vintage locket features damascene work (a technique where different metals are inlaid to create designs), making it rare and desirable. On the front, it displays the Russian Imperial double-headed eagle emblem, which was the symbol of the Romanov dynasty.
The main design also contains black enamel accents, particularly visible in the wings of the eagle. The design includes what appears to be a monogram or cipher in the center shield and crossed band bail. The distinctive design of this locket justifies its value of $700-$5,000.
3. Antique Victorian Mourning Locket
Antique Victorian lockets designed specifically as a mourning piece are one of the most collectible pieces. This one here is a solid gold round locket with detailed floral and foliate engraving work with a decorative border that appears to have black enamel accenting.
The two panels open to reveal two compartments (frames), one designed to hold locks of hair from a deceased loved one, and the other side for photos. Since mourning jewelry from the Victorian era is rare, these lockets can fetch $800–$2,000 today.
4. Cartier Gold 3-Page Blank Book Locket
This vintage Cartier gold locket is shaped like a miniature book with hinged covers and 3 “pages” that open to reveal two small frames for photographs. It’s made of 14K gold with a linear/ribbed textured pattern on both sides, featuring a rectangular cartouche (blank area for engraving) on the front and back.
The novelty of the design and the functionality of holding multiple images make this vintage locket rare and valuable. Depending on the size and materials, it can fetch $700 – $1,500+.
5. Japanese Shakudo Locket Meiji Period
The rare Japanese vintage locket is oval-shaped and features intricate mixed-metal work typical of Shakudo craftsmanship. Both sides display beautiful gold crane designs against a dark background (likely the shakudo alloy, a copper-gold mixture).
The left panel shows a crane with bamboo, while the right panel features a crane amid flowers. The craftsmanship displays the fine metalworking techniques that made Meiji-era Japanese decorative arts highly sought after today.
6. Krementz Floral Locket
Krementz’s vintage gold overlay (gold bonded to base metal rather than solid gold) lockets featuring flowing floral motifs in high relief can be greatly desirable due to the ornate craftsmanship and fine detailing. The central design is often surrounded by a decorative filigree or openwork border.
The lockets are generally seen in round or oval shapes. Early Krementz lockets, especially signed examples, can fetch $400–$1,000, depending on the condition and availability, and the material of the chain.
7. Victorian Banded Agate Locket (c. 1880)
Victorian agate lockets from the late 19th century are a must-have for vintage jewelry collectors. These simple lockets feature a solid hinged gold frame with a warm, slightly pinkish tone (characteristic of Victorian gold jewelry) containing two contrasting agate panels: one black and one red/orange.
The locket opens to reveal the interior compartments with the colored agate inserts. It has a simple bail (loop) at the top for hanging on a chain. The round design with a smooth, polished exterior is typical of Victorian lockets.
8. Tiffany & Co. Heart-Shaped Locket (c. 1900s)
A collectible vintage gold locket from Tiffany, this one has a highly polished heart-shaped body with “Tiffany & Co.” monogram and “585” gold hallmark engraving. The locket opens to reveal empty chambers to keep photos or other memorable articles.
Early Tiffany lockets, especially these heart-shaped ones, are highly sought-after, with values ranging from $500 to $2,000. Lockets in original boxes or pouches can fetch higher amounts.
9. Pietra Dura Floral Stone Locket
This vintage pietra dura locket from the 19th century is a rare find! The locket features an oval black stone background with decorative inlaid floral (forget-me-nots and peonies) mosaic design in white, red, light pink, and dark green rose colors.
On the back, the locket has a silver frame that can be opened. The hook/bail on the top of the locket features the owl hallmark, indicating it’s made of 18k gold. Due to the unique stone crafting technique, this vintage locket can fetch $500-$1,500, based on condition.
Note: Pietra Dura is an inlay technique of using cut and fitted, polished colored stones to create a stone mosaic. The name is not associated with any brand.
10. Vintage Swiss Reuge Music Box Locket Necklace
This is a unique mid-20th-century locket that is also a music box. This rare piece from Reuge is made of a gold-finished brass body, featuring a sixteenth note motif on the front decorated with faux diamonds and rhinestones.
The small handle at the back of the locket is marked “Swiss Made.” In good condition with the music box working, this locket can easily fetch $100-$500.
11. Vintage Gucci Italy Gold Horse Equestrian Stirrup Locket
This rare vintage locket from Gucci may look quite simple, but it’s highly collectible. It’s an 18K yellow gold horse equestrian stirrup-style (horse bit) locket pendant. The design mimics a horse stirrup with a clear glass/crystal front that would allow photos or mementos to be displayed.
The locket bears the “Gucci Italy” mark as well as a gold hallmark visible on the frame. This locket is popular as it reflects Gucci’s early craftsmanship in jewelry.
12. Alfred E Smith Gold Photo Locket
This is an 18K gold photo locket from 1913 associated with Alfred E Smith. It was a gift to Smith, who was the Speaker of the Assembly in the State of New York, from his colleagues.
It features a red gemstone (likely a ruby or garnet) at its center, surrounded by engraved text. The other side features the painting of the Great Seal of the State of New York, featuring Liberty and Justice.
The locket is made of fine gold, adding to its high value of $1,000-$4,000, depending on the condition.
13. French Edwardian Gold Dual Photo Locket
This rare Edwardian-style French locket is a collector’s charm. It’s designed to hold two photos inside a domed-shaped crystal glass inside a gold frame. The locket is often crafted in 14k or 18k gold. Despite its simple and elegant design, this antique locket can fetch $300-$1,000 in excellent condition due to its rare style.
